Oh yes, retinol, the good stuff. *Sigh*. It's a bit of a diva; you have to handle it with kid gloves and be veeery careful with it so it can perform at its best. But its performance is impressive: Retinol (= Vitamin A) is, after all, THE anti-aging ingredient (to use this silly term for lack of alternatives) Numero Uno for a reason. It has been studied in countless molecular biological studies, and its effectiveness is absolutely undisputed. Originally discovered as an anti-acne agent (it protects against clogged pores, among other things), it was found to reduce wrinkle depth in mature skin, making the skin plumper and smoother, and diminishing severe pigmentation. What does this fine substance do: it leads to collagen synthesis in the upper dermis – and the more collagen, the plumper the skin looks and the more effective it is. In the EU Cosmetics Regulation, the recommended limit for pure retinol is set at 0.3%.
Here's the big dilemma: retinol stimulates the skin, it has an irritating effect. If you use the substance too often, you might look like you have a sunburn. The skin is red and feels warm. Therefore, for beginners, it's important to start slowly. For example, in the first month, use it twice a week, then increase to three times a week, and so on. You'll notice immediately if it's too much! Even today, two to three applications per week are enough for me, while many customers can use a retinol product every day without any problems. So, as always, it depends on your skin.
Nota bene: Always apply retinol products in the evening and faithfully apply sun protection in the morning. Yep. Skin becomes more sensitive and needs to be protected.
Alternatives to biotechnologically produced retinol include Cacay oil, Moth bean, and Bakuchiol. Whether they are equally effective has not yet been sufficiently scientifically proven. My personal experience: I tolerate the alternative retinol products very well, even with my sensitive skin, whereas synthetic retinol I don't – the effect is simply too strong for me. Another advantage: with the retinol alternatives, I can be a bit sloppy with sun protection outside of summer ;-) My two absolute favorites for the night are the Renewing Bakuchi Cream from Ranavat (for winter, as it's quite rich) and the Dewy Bean Dream from Lilfox (a gel-like texture, an amazing overnight instant effect). Also fantastic for all oil lovers: the Bakuchiol Oil Serum from Wildcrafted Organics.
Since Vitamin A (like Vitamin D, for example) is a fat-soluble vitamin that accumulates in the body, its use during pregnancy is advised against.